With the swing back to steaks, and new steakhouses popping up all over, it's good to report that a long-time favorite, Ben Benson's Steak House, is still in the forefront. Summer saw no diminution of custom. "People just pick lighter accompaniments to go with their juicy, well-charred beefsteak," says Ben, the man himself. We certainly enjoyed our steaks, sided with creamed spinach and onion rings. And a whale of a shrimp cocktail, a massive lump crabmeat cocktail, and beef barley soup as starters. Tender triple lamb chops with mashed potato and onions hit the spot, as did the juicy 3p-lb lobster. There are no less than eight salads to choose from, and a raft of desserts if you stay the course. Ben Benson's, 123 W. 52 St., NY. (212) 581-8888. Lunch weekdays, dinner 7 days. Dinner entrees $17.75-#32.50. Reservations

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